So I headed up to Glendo in fine weather expecting a crowd but was pretty much on my own. A couple of others were working projects on the far side of the valley but I was over by Big Jim and Jane for most of the day. My apprenticeship on Andy's Arête starts today. Being ill during the week seems to have taken a bit of a tole and it took me ages to get going. Easy warm up problems were spitting me off like so much chewed tobacco but I persevered and managed to get my head in the game.
The 6b on the face of Big Jim was first to be worked. Those of you who know me will have seen my on this problem at some stage or another this winter. Its probably way over due a send but I haven't cracked it yet, until today when I cracked it, except I didn't crack it at all. After my bouldering master class last weekend I've been reviewing my technique and seeing problems in a new light, which has inspired a new solution to this problemo. Its a much more technical solution that involves a tricky rock over onto a tiny edge which requires a lot of trusting in feet. But it works. I was so surprised when I eventually latched the top jug that I forgot to hold on, so it didn't go. I tried again in vain for 30 minutes and latched the jug again one more time only to have my foot slip. Its been a long time since I got fed of with my bouldering but I was very un-impressed today. In hind-sight this is probably a good thing as it will give me drive.
Then I moved on to Andy's Arête. This is my big tick for my year of bouldering. Well my big tick is a 7a, I've decided to work this one. Andy's Arête by a standing start goes at 6c (I think), ad the sitting start and you've got a 7a. So today was my first day and it was the standing start. To be honest it went okay, I've worked out a sequence that may work, time will tell, and have started working it. It start off with getting established on a right smear and then latching an small edge with the left toe. At this point you rock up onto the left and then move up for the next hand hold. Managed to get the rockup twice but have to work out what to do with my right foot to stop me from barn-dooring. Probably spent to much time on Big Jim before hand. Ah well, it looks like a plausible project though.
To finish off I did the path side traverse, the sequence is photographed below.
3 comments:
Glad to hear some of last week helped Phil. Look forward to you getting those sends :)
Which one is the 6b on the face of Big Jim?
It's problem 7 in the guide. Go from two crimps for the jug in the break.
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