St Patricks Day

So I headed up to Glendo in fine weather expecting a crowd but was pretty much on my own. A couple of others were working projects on the far side of the valley but I was over by Big Jim and Jane for most of the day. My apprenticeship on Andy's Arête starts today. Being ill during the week seems to have taken a bit of a tole and it took me ages to get going. Easy warm up problems were spitting me off like so much chewed tobacco but I persevered and managed to get my head in the game.

The 6b on the face of Big Jim was first to be worked. Those of you who know me will have seen my on this problem at some stage or another this winter. Its probably way over due a send but I haven't cracked it yet, until today when I cracked it, except I didn't crack it at all. After my bouldering master class last weekend I've been reviewing my technique and seeing problems in a new light, which has inspired a new solution to this problemo. Its a much more technical solution that involves a tricky rock over onto a tiny edge which requires a lot of trusting in feet. But it works. I was so surprised when I eventually latched the top jug that I forgot to hold on, so it didn't go. I tried again in vain for 30 minutes and latched the jug again one more time only to have my foot slip. Its been a long time since I got fed of with my bouldering but I was very un-impressed today. In hind-sight this is probably a good thing as it will give me drive.

Then I moved on to Andy's Arête. This is my big tick for my year of bouldering. Well my big tick is a 7a, I've decided to work this one. Andy's Arête by a standing start goes at 6c (I think), ad the sitting start and you've got a 7a. So today was my first day and it was the standing start. To be honest it went okay, I've worked out a sequence that may work, time will tell, and have started working it. It start off with getting established on a right smear and then latching an small edge with the left toe. At this point you rock up onto the left and then move up for the next hand hold. Managed to get the rockup twice but have to work out what to do with my right foot to stop me from barn-dooring. Probably spent to much time on Big Jim before hand. Ah well, it looks like a plausible project though.

To finish off I did the path side traverse, the sequence is photographed below.

Glendalough

Good session up in Glendo on Saturday, even if conditions were a bit greasy, and a good crowd too. Last few times I've been out it was me on my lonesome. Did the usual warm up circuit by the path and spotted a possible new line which looks kind of easy but still interesting. However there was a smell of *ahem* animal droppings coming from where my mat would have to go so I left it alone. It will go next time. I did get the path side traverse problem on my first attempt which I'm pleased with, tried Greg's Problem which I could hang but couldn't get the campus move. Greg's problem is basically a jump to a couple of slopers and then either campus or try and get a foot on under the overhang and slap for the next hold. Followed by the obligatory mantle.

We tried the fin slab (6a version) but it wasn't to go for any of us and neither were the Rails (for me anyway). Then we tried The Butcher of Glendalough AKA Howard's roof. This is a hand jamming crack along a roof and then up and around for a mantle finish. I got the first two moves before quitting but its on the 'To Do' list. It really is a butcher of a problem. We headed over to Big Jim to do the slab problems and give our hands a break. As long as I've been going to Glendo I haven't been able to do that fecken slab problem at the back of Big Jim and I'm despairing for any future attempts. A dew started to settle in the valley at this stage so we called it a day.

It's interesting how some problems that are easier than most just won't go. I'm sure everybody has something that they think 'For crying out loud I should have been able to get this years ago'. Try and try again you just can't do it. There must be a way around these mental blocks, a NLP technique or something. I'm going to start experimenting with NLP again as it helped me break into a new grade a couple of route climbing years ago.

Anyway I forgot my camera but Neal showed up with his so I've stolen a few from his photos below. You can find the full album here.

I've now got two short trips away planned: Bouldering competition and meet in Galway and The Burren 3rd/4th November. Then Fontainebleau 22nd-26th November. One of the things I love about climbing is the travelling. Admittedly Galway isn't exactly exotic but you know what I mean.