My year bouldering is nearly finished. In fairness its kind of fading away towards the end instead of building to the grand finale I thought it would. But I won't go into that now.
What I want to know is should I keep this blog or start a new one once the year is up? I've a poll posted in the side bar (it's over there >>) so please vote and let me know.
Yes means that ayearbouldering.blogspot.com stays. No means I start a new blog elsewhere.
I've just bought The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner: haven't read it yet but its in the post. However, I have read this article by one *Cider Nut* on UKC. Its a very good article, go read it. Its inspired me to write this entry.
My fears have defeated me time and time again and I've always got an excuse to avoid going climbing or avoiding the routes I really want to climb. For me the fun in climbing always came after the fact - I felt totaly stoked after I'd climbed but never during. Why? Because I'm afraid.
I guess this is why I love bouldering so much, the fear factor isn't present for me, although I've seen it in other people, and I can experience the pure joy of moving across rock. God how I wish I could have that joy on lead. But I've always had an excuse to stay in my comfort zone. Here's some of the more common ones.
The really noticable thing missing from that list is the following:
This, in truth, is the only honest excuse I have and I never acknowledge it. This is not like me, I'm honest with myself and don't avoid emotional issues. Except I do avoid them it would seem. As I've re-read that list I've realised just how poor and downright ridiculous those excuses are. I'm shy ... WTF?! I know half the climbers in Ireland and, this is something I found suprising this last year, half the climbers in Ireland know me. And what about all those people I boulder with? Shy my ass.
So what's to be done? I need to push my comfort zone - I need to embrace the fear and start enjoying it. I'm going to avoid climbing routes I've already climbed. I'm going back to Dalkey, then the Burren and the Mournes and Fairhead and all the other fantastic crags we have on our wee island. So here's my plan of attack for now.
One last point I should mention, its from Dave MacLeod: He recommends shifting your working life to compliment your climbing life - not the other way around. To heed his advice I've quit my job! I'm planning on being unemployed for a couple of months only but it should be enough to get me to that coveted E1 grade.
So if anybody wants to go climbing with me, I'm based in Dublin, and will be free all week long from July 11th. Can climb about E1, good at multipitching, and I love climbing.
Turns out I've been asked to write for a website. Its not the first time I'll have had something published, it'll be the third time, but this time it's a regular gig. Probably got a thumbs up from Neal in the background as Team Geared Up have asked me to write a weekly bouldering column - which I've agreed to do. I was beginning to wonder what I'll do with this once the year is up. Well now I know, I'll be writing for TGU and it all starts at the end of June.
I doubt it will focus exclusively on Irish bouldering because let face it there's not enough of us doing exciting enough stuff on a weekly basis but I do hope to have an Irish bias.
I've really been slack with this blog haven't I? Well it is summer I suppose. Does anybody even read it anymore? Answers in comments please
I am developing a small area in Sligo which shall remain secret for the time being. Mostly because at present theres a couple of Font 5s, a 6a and a 6b(ish) project and that's it. Not much interest there yet. I'm also at odds on how to publish the problems. The rock is sandstone and while the problems are fingery and strong there's always a huge jug within reach. How do you say this is such and such when following the line on jugs makes it easy as hell? Anyway I've several trips back to Sligo planned and should *hopefully* put together a little guide at some stage during the summer.
In other news there's a rat-race planned for Belfast in August. I'm entering avec le future wife and we're starting training for that.
Beth Rodden has climbed a new route - Meltdown - in Yosemite. Not a bouldering story I know but E11 is big news. Meltdown being the third given such a grade. Rhapsody and Cobra Crack being the other two.
Full details from UKC and Climbing.com.
Sounds like a dream, doesn't it? A free Tibet. Or even a Tibet without torture. We (me and Jenny) have be wondering about how to support the Tibetans and I've happened upon the Sad Smokey Mountains project. Italian artist and mountaineer, Alberto Peruffo, has setup the SSM project in protest of the ongoing situation in Tibet. You'll find details here: http://www.sadsmokymountains.net/.
The protest is going to take place on 8 August 2008, my 35th birthday, to coincide with the opening ceremony of the Olympic games. Ban Ki-moon won't be attending it would seem, neither will any other world leader with any integrity. Here in Ireland we don't have any significant peaks, Carrauntoohil wouldn't qualify in my humble opinion. I suppose if we got enough smoke off the top of the Dublin Mountains to be seen across the capital it might be good enough.
However to really make an impact (i.e. get on national television) it would have to be a significant structure or building in Dublin with a roof that is attainable.
Anyone have any suggestions?
