As is inevitable with a new blog I'm going to be posting loads, this will ease off as the blog gets older. For the one person who has read it so far: thank you come again.
So some stats to start with and then some goals, please note I am an average climber just like the rest of you. When on form I'd usually be bouldering in the Font 6's.
Currently onsighting about font 5/5+ but I'll work some more problems over the weekend to get a better idea of where I stand.
Tried the usual suspects game and did terrible. 4 chin ups every minute, 10 minutes, absolutely wrecked¹. I did the last 2 reps on Metolious Rock Rungs though, with my legs straight out in front of me in an L shape. This bright idea of mine is to build core strength (wonder how long that's going to last?) so it will be a separate exercise from now on. I do own a finger board and its being very useful sitting in the shed gather dust and spider carcasses. Hanging it requires effort on my part - this will go someways to explaining my current abysmal stats².
I doing 50 sit ups straight, I can do more but I want to build gradually.
On the campus board I can do 1-4-6 once, to my shame. I used to be able to do 1-4-7 a several times followed by a few up-downs in the 1-3-5-7-9 pattern.
Obviously there's a lot of room for improvement, I'm going to do the pull up game every Monday from now on and log my efforts. I could probably loose a little weight, not that I'm over weight but shedding a couple of kilos makes all the difference. My current weight is: a mystery as we don't own a scales. My training schedule is in the making - I've a fair gauge of my current fitness and needs now so I can develop a good plan.
Here are my goals.
Short term: Get back to 1-4-7 on the campus board and be able to do it more than once. Complete the full 20 minutes of the pull up game. Do 10 straight L pull ups on the rock rungs. Send lots of problems within my ability. Send the mint problem on the UCD bouldering wall.
Middle term: Send Chillax this coming winter (font 6c) and the Fin Area Arete (6b the grade should have + on the end I think). Get back to onsighting at 6a/6a+. Get my ass over to Font. Do better in this year's Irish Bouldering League : Open A events.
Long term (end of year): Send a Font 7a problem. Just the one will do, more will be nice but I'll settle for the one as it'll be loads of work. It will probably be the sit start to Andy's Arete in Glendo but that may change.
¹And not in a cool vodka advertising way. That's the difference between me and an 8a climber I suppose.
²Lazy mofo.
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10 comments:
Hey man, nice blog! Looks like we're pretty much in the same boat! Is that the mint problem on the right or the left of the UCD wall?
Left hand side of the wall. On the roof section - I sent it last night (woohoo).
You should try the pull up game and post your results somewhere.
Nice, well done! i can do all the moves in isolation, but i keep falling off that undercut/sidepull thing....next time i'll get it! Yeah, I'll do that in the next day or two. Keep an eye out!
If you don't want some beta look away now:
I've been going for the big pinch just underneath the undercut then heal hooking the ½ moon shaped jug. This gives you loads of stability to sort yourself out. :)
That sounds like the best way to spend a year - best of luck and look forward to hearing about your developments. I would be particularly interested in any cool training techniques you can pass on - I need all the help I can get.
Never bouldering in Ireland, let alone visted the country - so would be keen to see some pict's of any areas you try for inspiration for a visit.
Catchya'
Rye
Yeah, I'm sorting out a photo gallery at the moment. It will probably be next week sometime.
Your training seems tough.. but hang on!! You will get stronger!
You tried my pull-up game?!?! ouch :)
If it helps, it took me a few attempts at it to get competent at it. It's pretty brutal and to be honest, I'm not sure how well it actually transfers to routes. Still though, nice going for trying it out.
BTW, cheers for posting your blog link to the comments of the forum......
I've kind of given up on it at this stage, it was too hard. Although I'm still doing 4 pullups a minute for 10 minutes as part of my home workout.
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